Such were the special places I discovered in the middle of our blessed country, where the heart of the Philippines as well as mine can be found.
Only an hour away by plane from landlocked Luzon is a group of beautiful islands collectively called Central Visayas. A visit to the region reminds me of a poignant verse in Bayan Ko composed by Constancio de Guzman: “Waring natipon ang kayamanan ng Maykapal.”
He might as well have been pertaining to Central Visayas composed of the beautiful islands of Cebu, Bohol, Negros Oriental and Siquijor.
Anyone who has been to these provinces are likely to agree, it is the closest we Filipinos can get to paradise without leaving the country. When one is looking for adventure or simple bliss, Central Visayas is the place to go on a backpacking tour. I took on such a journey recently as I hopped from one island to the next via fast sea crafts that took me to an abundance of breathtaking beaches, caves, and lush forests.
My first experience of this favored region is the Queen City of the South, Cebu City. I feel particularly blessed that parts of my roots belong here as my father hails from Cebu province. Although my family lived in Manila, I spent lots of my growing up years in my father’s hometown in Bogo.
As a young child, I spent summers there with my grandparents and cousins swimming in the beaches of San Remigio, a few hours away from the next Boracay, Bantayan island up north. We would partake in a delicious feast of inasal (Cebuano lechon for the Tagalogs) while my relatives prepared sinugba (grilled) fish, teaching us how to make the puso rice using pandan leaves with our hands. My fondest memories tended to sway towards food as Cebuanos loved to eat. My grandmother spoiled us with local delicacies -- chorizo, danggit, rosquillos, dried mangoes and otap to bring back home.
But I remember our trip would not be complete without hearing mass at the Sto. Niño Cathedral to give thanks to Cebu’s beloved patron who inspired the Sinulog festival, and then we would throw a wishing candle to the Cross that was planted by Magellan, located nearby.
While returning here after many years, I saw Cebu again with fresh eyes. The most visited city in the country has not escaped change. Seeing the spacious IT park being developed in Lahug and the new food and entertainment complexes that have sprouted in the city indicated the province’s continuing progress. Yet as I took a bus ride to the north, I returned to the province’s old mystique and was grateful that in spite of development, this beautiful island will retain its classic charm. Even when buildings sprout, the sea will always remain.
Perhaps it is the closeness of the Cebuanos to these waters that provides them with inspiration and creativity to design such beautiful furniture and fashion accessories or compose tunes for beautiful voices that comes out so naturally.
With renewed love for my father’s roots, I left Cebu to discover an equally blessed island called Bohol. Though separated by water, these sister islands have a spiritual connection. Forty-four years after Magellan planted the seed of Christianity in Cebu, another famous Spanish conquistador came and made peace with the local chieftain King Tupas. He then visited Bohol and sealed a frienship with Datu Sikatuna with a Blood Compact in 1565. Today the table of friendship is located in Bool town. Like Legaspi, who can resist the allure of charming Bohol just 1.5 hours ferry ride from Cebu?
I discovered that a day trip could take you to see the famous Chocolate Hills in the morning and come noon you can take your lunch while cruising the Loboc river after meeting the adorable tarsier.
In the afternoon I went to see many of Bohol’s unique centuries-old churches particularly the Baclayon Church, the oldest stone church in the country built by the Jesuits in 1595. I dropped by St. Joseph’s Cathedral in the capital Tagbilaran City to pray for a God-sent partner in life. These old churches are just among many religious and historical heritages to see including conventos, watchtowers, escuelas de niños y niñas, cabildos, presidencias and old bridges.
To catch a beautiful sunset, I journeyed towards the powdery sands of Panglao island in the late afternoon. I regret not having stayed longer to explore the most colorful and exotic displays of marine life in its shores and to discover the underground Hinagdanan Cave in Dauis. But I cherish Bohol for all the things I have yet to discover and come back to, hopefully with my answered prayer someday.
In my last day in this beautiful island, a storm was brewing and ferries going to Dumaguete were about to be suspended. But as I grew apprehensive for the next island hop, a warm Boholano friend assured me, “Don’t worry, you’ll be trapped in paradise.”
Taking the risk, I braved the waters and took a two-hour ride via fast seacraft from Bohol to Negros Oriental.
Getting off the Dumaguete port, I felt as if my prayers have been answered. I was pleasantly surprised to see the port waters so crystal-clear, one can even see the sand. The warm smiles of the locals were signs of great things to come. A stroll along its capital Dumaguete city was enough to refresh a wearied traveler as she chooses from many restaurants that line up Rizal Boulevard and finally dining as the sea turns on a gentle melody. The whole experience felt like falling in love as the towering age-old Acacia trees lining up the dreamy campus by the sea Silliman University seemed to agree. Even the plants and flowers seemed to jump out of their stems for joy as they glowed brighter and happier in these parts.
I too felt a flush in my cheeks. Discovering the right side of Negros Island was like finding true love. If a traveler’s dream was to find a place to fall in love with and remain faithful to, Negros Oriental was her soul mate.
I went to the verdant Valencia, Negros’ little Baguio, to be close to the trees at Forest Camp and see the natural water pool fed by Mt. Talinis. With the beautiful mountain paradise of Canlaon, Negros has the largest land area in Central Visayas providing 60% of the region’s total forest cover.
A dive in the world class reefs of Apo Island off the town of Dauin is a world of its own. This renowned 72-hectare volcanic island is home to 450 coral species and 2,500 fish species. One can also go to Bais City, to experience the warmth of the equally gentle and friendly dolphins that gamely entertain their guests.
Nearby Siquijor island sends her inviting glance with its virgin beaches and caves waiting to be explored. Though I haven’t found the time to visit there, I am just grateful for the chance to have something to look forward to.
A visit to Central Visayas simply inspires awe and gratitude in such a wonderful Creator who has blessed us with so much beauty. It is no wonder there is much to celebrate as plenty of festivals are held across the region to thank God for the bounties of land and sea.
I, on the other hand, want to celebrate its people. For the region is home to many talents -- artists, designers, craftsmen, writers and inventors. Among them acclaimed National Artist sculptor Napoleon Abueva from Bohol and National Artist for Literature writer Dr. Edith L. Tiempo from Negros Oriental.
As I left this blessed region, I looked over the small plane window for a macro view of the central islands after seeing so much love in its details. I looked out from my window with much longing because, although it has given back so much to my soul, I had already left my heart.
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